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When we told people we were off to Croatia, almost everyone suggested Dubrovnik (a few people suggested Split and Hvar as well) and by suggesting I mean they told us stories of how awesome their mostly touristy and drunken few days there were a few years ago. Now, with the GoT thing having been set and filmed in and around Dubrovnik and the rest of the Dalmatian coast, the place has become a must see for all kinds of travelers and tourists and has also become very, very busy.
So, we being us and considering our natural distaste for over-tourism and huge masses of humanity, let’s discuss Rovinj. I mean, who goes to Rovinj?
Well, Italians. And Germans, Austrians, Slovenians, and more from other Eastern European countries. Really, anyone who wants to experience a taste of Italy and get a glimpse of what old-world Venice would be like without all the people (and before said huge masses of humanity decided to punish it by pushing it back down into the sea).
Rovinj is tucked way up north on the Adriatic, just over the border from Slovenia, a couple hours drive from Trieste in Italy, and only a few hours ferry ride from Venice itself. It’s a quiet fishing village (well, a lot more quiet than Dubrovnik or Split) with some resorts, parks, incredible secluded rock and pebble beaches, and a shitload of gelato.
What is it and why go?
The totally useless, dumbed down, not-to-brief history of Rovinj is like this: It was “founded” sometime before the 6th century as a fishing port, bounced around a bit with rulers and powers, and swore allegiance to Venice in the 1200’s. Then, as with the rest of Venice, Rovinj was in a bit of a on-again, off-again romance with Italy up through the 1940’s until it became a part of Yugoslavia. Not too consistent…but hey, that’s Italy for you.
What this history did was create a lasting Italian influence on the place. To this day, it’s kind of 50/50 Croatia and Italy…Not quite either one completely. They even maintain two official languages, Croatian and Italian. Maybe that’s why I had some troubles with it.
See, Rovinj is a really cute little ancient town. History is all around. Church bells from the hilltop cathedral ring constantly. The buildings remind you of Venice, there are hundreds of little alleys in which to get lost, there are cute little restaurants and shops all over, and the sights, sounds, and smell of water, fish, and wailing seagulls are everywhere. That said, the place is spotless. I mean, spotless. These people take some serious pride in making their town clean. Venice could learn a thing or two.
The city parks are incredible. There are hiking trails, biking trails, some killer rock climbing faces, and, as mentioned before, just countless little secluded coves for beaching…clothing optional (sometimes sadly). The water is clear and calm, the sunsets are unbelievable, and the people are genuinely pleasant.
Seriously?
But it’s missing something. It’s not really like the rest of Croatia. It’s more like Italy, but not quite as good. Cafes are everywhere, but the espresso is not quite as good. Pizza shops and pasta restaurants are everywhere, but not quite as good. Everyone talks about their open air farmers market, but it was okay at best. Aperol spritzers flow like sweet orange waterfalls, and gelato is absolutely everywhere, but not quite as good. Everyone speaks at least a few languages, drifting in and out of Italian, Croatian, and English, meaning you really don’t have to try to ingrain yourself in the native culture. Hell, maybe it’s too clean and well-managed. Maybe it’s just lacking that certain Rovinj-ness that it needs. Maybe it simply is missing a soul.
Make no mistake, I would hang out in Rovinj any day, and for a quick weekend on the beach or week at a resort, it’s top notch. It’s a really cool town to wander through. The history is incredible, the food is more than okay, and there is no way to not have a good time.
The Take Away
Go. Visit. Stay a while. But, after you leave, I will challenge you to remember any one specific, unique, fabulous thing about it. As Lael puts it, “I really liked that one place…you know, that one that served that thing. I forget the name.”
We’d go back…but we’re not too sure why.
